Madeleine Vionnet - my role model

This month as part of International Women's Day celebrations I have joined a women's blogging group - sharing encouragement and support and most importantly making my voice heard. Something that I take for granted all too easily.

So today I'd like to introduce to you a remarkable and inspiring woman who is a true role model to me and who, in my opinion, is not as well known as she ought to be. Her name is Madeleine Vionnet and she was one of the greatest fashion designers and couturiers of the 20th century. Her heyday was the interwar period from 1918 - 1939 when her influence was on a par with Coco Chanel. Her decision not to reopen her ateliers after WWII is one of the main reasons that she fell into relative obscurity.

You can find out more about her style here and here, but what I'd like to tell you about is her truly modern vision as a business woman. At a time when working conditions were not high on the list of priorities for most companies, Vionnet introduced a number of measures to increase the welfare of her staff. She provided free dental and health care to her entire workforce, bought chairs with seat-backs for her seamstresses and even provided holiday, maternity and sick leave. Her own experiences as a young apprentice inspired her to do better for her own staff.

Her designs were so groundbreaking and popular that they were frequently copied. Think of 'Hollywood Glamour' and you will undoubtedly be picturing one of her distinct bias cut gowns. She was a pioneer in trying to protect her intellectual property and meticulously photographed each design in front of a three panel mirror in order to document - in one picture - the front, back and side views. These were catalogued and she was part of several high profile, though ultimately unsuccessful, schemes to stem the flow of copied designs into the marketplace.

Her vision for women is another aspect that I still find so relevant in 2016: she wanted to liberate women's bodies from the constraints of the corset and allow them to move. An often quoted saying of hers is: When a woman smiles, then her dress should smile too. Comfort inspiring design - now there is an idea I can agree with!

Spring cleaning

March has arrived and although today's rain does not really inspire spring cleaning this time of year usually does make me want to blow away the winter cobwebs and have a clear out. Top of my list is sorting through my wardrobe to create more space for what I really want and do wear, eliminating the many items that I haven't worn in years. I hate opening my stuffed drawers and squashed hanging space, but the task at hand seems so over-whelming that it's hard to know where to start. If this sounds like your wardrobe too please keep on reading as I'd like to share a few strategies with you to make spring cleaning it less daunting.

First off - a stress free way to decide on what to keep and what to give away is by turning around all the hangers in your wardrobe so that they hook onto the rail from back to front. Set yourself a time limit - a few months or one year. Then, every time you wear an item, turn the hanger round and put it back the right way. At the end of the time period you will clearly see what clothes you wear and which are staying put. Clear out all those which are still facing backwards and voila! you will be left with your favourite and, I'm certain, most flattering pieces.

Once the weather gets a bit warmer make sure to pack up and store your winter items. You will not only create more room in your wardrobe, but come the next winter you'll be able to get out all these items and feel as though you've just been on a huge shopping trip. Changing your wardrobe according to the seasons isn't just practical it also helps keep your clothes feeling fresh and new for years. 

Gather up all clothes that no longer fit and which you therefore don't wear. Be honest with yourself and assess whether you are likely to fit into them again in the future. Decide which ones to let go of and donate them to charity. Consider replacing items that you loved like for like with your current size. If the thought of hitting the shops fills you with dread, consider enlisting the help of a personal stylist to put the fun back into shopping for you. If you need a recommendation do get in touch. 

Another option is to ask a tailor to recreate your favourite trousers, dress or jacket and tailor it to fit your current size. Having an item to start from can make the prospect of having an item tailor-made less daunting. You already know that the style suited and flattered you before. You will be involved in the process of creating the garment, choosing the fabric and colour - a whole new way to discover fashion.

Host a swap party for your friends. Make sure you have a good mix of sizes and ask everyone to bring a few pieces they no longer wear or have never worn. Provide some drinks and nibbles and enjoy an evening of good company and style. It is quite likely that the top that never worked for you looks amazing on your friend and vice versa. Don't forget to trawl through your jewellery box too!

Ask your employer to host a suit drive for International Women's Day. You'll be making space in your wardrobe whilst helping women get started in their careers. Here are a few organisations you might wish to consider for this: 

www.smartworks.org.uk

www.dressforsuccess.org

I hope these tips will help you get started and inspire you to start your own wardrobe detox. Let me know how you get on in the comments and / or add your own ideas. 

Please feel free to share this post.

Dara